Mint Green Woven Bag on Vanity Free Pattern

I don’t know about you, but I have a serious soft spot for handbags that look like they cost way more than they actually did. This mint green crochet bag gives you all the designer vibes without the designer price tag. The woven herringbone texture is absolutely stunning, and the hardware details take it from handmade to high-end in seconds.

Mint Green Woven Bag on Vanity Free Pattern

This structured crossbody bag has been living rent-free in my head since I finished it. The combination of chunky t-shirt yarn, that gorgeous diagonal stitch pattern, and polished silver hardware creates something truly special. Whether you’re heading to brunch or just running errands, this bag is about to become your new favorite accessory.

Why You’ll Love This Woven Crochet Bag Pattern

Let me tell you what makes this crochet bag pattern stand out from the dozens of purse patterns out there.

First, that herringbone stitch creates a woven, almost basket-like texture that looks incredibly sophisticated. People will not believe you made this yourself. I promise you will get compliments every single time you carry it.

Second, this bag has real structure. We’re working with t-shirt yarn (also called trapillo or jersey yarn), which is thick, sturdy, and holds its shape beautifully. No floppy bags here.

Third, the hardware elevates everything. The push lock closure, chain strap with woven yarn detail, and D-ring attachments transform this from a craft project into a genuine fashion accessory.

And here’s the best part for beginners: despite looking complex, this bag uses one main stitch repeated throughout the body. Once you get the rhythm down, your hands will work on autopilot while you binge your favorite show.

Skill Level

Intermediate

This crochet tutorial requires comfort with working in continuous rounds, increasing and decreasing, and maintaining consistent tension with bulky yarn. The herringbone stitch pattern takes a few rows to master, but I’ll walk you through it step by step.

If you’ve made a few amigurumi projects or simple bags before, you’re ready for this one.

Finished Dimensions

  • Width: Approximately 8 inches (20 cm)
  • Height: Approximately 6 inches (15 cm), not including handle
  • Depth: Approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
  • Handle Drop: Approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
  • Chain Strap Length: Approximately 45 inches (114 cm), adjustable
  • Materials Needed

    Mint Green Woven Bag on Vanity Free Pattern

    Yarn

  • T-shirt yarn / Trapillo yarn in mint green or seafoam
  • Approximately 200-250 yards (180-230 meters)
  • Super bulky weight, typically around 2-3 skeins depending on yardage per skein
  • T-shirt yarn is made from recycled jersey fabric cut into continuous strips. It’s thick, soft, and has a slight stretch. Popular brands include Hoooked Zpagetti, Lion Brand Fettuccini, and Lily Sugar’n Cream Scrub Off. You can also make your own from old t-shirts if you’re feeling resourceful.

    Hook

  • 10mm (US N/15) crochet hook or 12mm (US P/16) crochet hook
  • Check your gauge and adjust hook size as needed. T-shirt yarn varies quite a bit between brands, so your perfect hook might be different from mine.

    Hardware

  • 1 push lock clasp (also called a tongue lock or tuck lock), approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm)
  • 2 D-rings, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm)
  • 2 swivel lobster clasps
  • 1 chain strap, approximately 45 inches (114 cm), or chain by the foot plus matching lobster clasps
  • 4 metal rivets or Chicago screws (for attaching D-rings)
  • You can find bag hardware kits online or at craft stores. Search for "purse hardware kit" or "bag making supplies." The silver finish shown here is classic, but gold or rose gold would be gorgeous too.

    Additional Supplies

  • Tapestry needle with large eye
  • Stitch marker
  • Scissors
  • Small piece of cardboard (for tassel making)
  • Optional: fabric for lining, approximately 1/2 yard
  • Optional: leather hole punch or awl for hardware installation
  • Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

    Before we dive into the pattern, let me explain every stitch and abbreviation you’ll encounter.

    Ch = Chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook. This creates a foundation or adds height.

    Sl st = Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch AND loop on hook in one motion. Used for joining or moving across stitches invisibly.

    Sc = Single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. Your basic building block stitch.

    Hdc = Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once. Slightly taller than single crochet.

    Herringbone hdc (hbhdc) = Herringbone half double crochet. This is the magic stitch that creates our woven texture. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through first loop on hook only, yarn over, pull through next loop only, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. The "pull through one loop at a time" action creates that diagonal lean.

    Inc = Increase. Work 2 stitches into the same stitch.

    Dec = Decrease. Work 2 stitches together as one.

    St(s) = Stitch(es)

    Rnd = Round

    Gauge

    12 stitches and 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in herringbone half double crochet with 10mm hook and t-shirt yarn.

    Gauge matters for this project because it affects both the size and the structure of your bag. Too loose and your bag will be floppy. Too tight and it will be stiff and difficult to work. Take a few minutes to check your gauge before starting.

    Step by Step Crochet Pattern

    The Base

    We’re starting with an oval base that gives the bag its structured rectangular shape.

    Foundation Chain: Ch 15.

    Rnd 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chains count as first hdc), hdc in next 11 ch, 4 hdc in last ch (this turns the corner), working along opposite side of foundation chain, hdc in next 11 ch, 3 hdc in last ch, sl st to join. Place stitch marker. (32 sts)

    Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as stitch throughout), hdc in same st, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, sl st to join. (38 sts)

    Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, working 2 hdc in corner stitches (every 6th and 7th st on short ends), sl st to join. (44 sts)

    Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st to join. (44 sts)

    Your base should now measure approximately 8 inches by 3 inches. It will look like a rounded rectangle or elongated oval.

    The Body

    Now we build up the sides using the herringbone stitch. This is where the magic happens.

    Rnd 5: Ch 2, working in back loops only (this creates a sharp edge at the base), hbhdc in each st around, sl st to join. (44 sts)

    Don’t panic if your first round of herringbone looks a little wonky. It takes about 10-15 stitches to find your rhythm. The key is pulling through one loop at a time. Think of it as climbing a ladder with your yarn.

    Rnds 6-18: Ch 2, hbhdc in each st around (working through both loops now), sl st to join. (44 sts each round)

    You’ll work 13 rounds total for the body. This creates approximately 6 inches of height.

    As you work, you’ll see beautiful diagonal lines forming. Each stitch leans in the same direction, creating that woven herringbone texture.

    Quick tip: Try not to pull too tight at the beginning of each round. This can cause the sides to pull inward. Keep your tension even and let the yarn do the work.

    Creating the Opening and Shaping the Flap Area

    Rnd 19: Ch 2, hbhdc in next 15 sts, ch 14, skip 14 sts (this creates the opening where the flap will sit), hbhdc in remaining 15 sts, sl st to join. (30 hbhdc + 14 ch = 44 sts)

    Rnd 20: Ch 2, hbhdc in each st and ch around, sl st to join. (44 sts)

    Fasten off. Weave in ends on the body.

    The Flap

    The flap is worked separately and attached to the back of the bag.

    Row 1: Join yarn at center back of bag opening. Ch 2, hbhdc in next 14 sts across the back edge. Turn. (14 sts)

    Row 2: Ch 2, hbhdc in each st across. Turn. (14 sts)

    Rows 3-8: Repeat Row 2. (14 sts each row)

    Row 9 (decrease row): Ch 2, skip first st, hbhdc in next 12 sts, skip last st. Turn. (12 sts)

    Row 10: Ch 2, skip first st, hbhdc in next 10 sts, skip last st. Turn. (10 sts)

    Row 11: Ch 2, hbhdc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

    Border: Ch 1, sc evenly around entire flap edge, working 3 sc in each corner to keep it flat. Sl st to join.

    Fasten off. Weave in ends.

    The Handle

    The braided handle adds beautiful texture and comfort.

    Make 3 strands:

    For each strand, ch 50. Fasten off. You’ll have 3 long chains.

    Braid:

    Hold all 3 chains together at one end. Secure with a clip or safety pin. Braid tightly until you reach the other end. Secure ends.

    Attach:

    Using your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, whip stitch each end of the braid to the sides of the bag, approximately 1 inch below the top edge. Reinforce with several passes of yarn through the braided ends and the bag body.

    The Tassel

    Step 1: Cut a piece of cardboard approximately 4 inches tall.

    Step 2: Wrap t-shirt yarn around the cardboard 8-10 times.

    Step 3: Slide a short piece of yarn under the wraps at the top and tie tightly.

    Step 4: Cut the wraps at the bottom of the cardboard.

    Step 5: Wrap another piece of yarn around the tassel about 1 inch from the top to create the "head."

    Step 6: Trim ends evenly.

    Step 7: Attach tassel to the push lock clasp using the tie at the top.

    Hardware Installation

    Here’s where your bag transforms from homemade to high-end.

    Push Lock Clasp:

    Position the clasp on the flap, centered and approximately 1 inch from the bottom edge. Mark where the prongs will go through. Use an awl or leather punch to create small holes. Push prongs through from the front, and secure with the backing plate on the inside.

    Position the catch plate on the bag body, aligning it with the clasp. Mark, punch holes, and install with backing plate.

    If you’ve never installed bag hardware before, I recommend watching a quick YouTube tutorial. It’s easier than it sounds, I promise.

    D-Rings:

    Crochet two small tabs: Ch 8, sl st to join in a ring, ch 1, sc 12 around the ring, sl st to join. Fasten off.

    Thread each tab through a D-ring, fold in half, and attach to the sides of the bag at the top corners using rivets or by sewing securely.

    Chain Strap:

    If your chain strap doesn’t come with lobster clasps attached, add them now. Then simply clip each end to a D-ring. The yarn woven through the chain links matches the bag and adds a cohesive designer touch.

    Optional: Adding a Fabric Lining

    For a truly professional finish, consider adding a simple fabric lining.

    Cut two pieces of fabric slightly smaller than the bag dimensions. Sew them together, leaving the top open. Insert into the bag and hand stitch to the top edge using small, invisible stitches.

    A lining protects your items, hides any interior imperfections, and prevents small items from poking through the stitches.

    Care Instructions

    T-shirt yarn bags can be spot cleaned with mild soap and water. Lay flat to dry. Avoid machine washing, as the hardware can be damaged and the yarn may stretch.

    Store your bag stuffed with tissue paper to help it keep its shape.

    Customization Ideas

    This crochet bag pattern is wonderfully versatile. Here are some ways to make it your own:

  • Try bold colors like coral, mustard, or classic black
  • Swap silver hardware for gold or antique brass
  • Add a monogram patch to the flap
  • Skip the chain strap and make it a clutch
  • Use leather straps instead of a crocheted handle
  • Add an interior pocket by crocheting a small rectangle and attaching it inside before lining
  • Troubleshooting Common Issues

    My stitches don’t look diagonal: Make sure you’re pulling through one loop at a time in the herringbone stitch. It should feel like three separate motions, not one fluid pull.

    My bag is too floppy: Check your gauge. You may need a smaller hook. Also ensure you’re maintaining consistent, slightly firm tension.

    My base is curling: This usually resolves itself once you start building up the sides. The back loop only round helps create a sharp corner that discourages curling.

    I can’t find the right hardware: Search for "vintage style purse hardware" or "designer style bag clasp" online. Etsy has wonderful options from hardware suppliers.

    Mint Green Woven Bag on Vanity Free Pattern

    Final Thoughts on This Woven Crochet Bag

    This mint green crochet bag pattern delivers serious style without serious difficulty. Yes, it takes some patience. Yes, you’ll need to source a few hardware pieces. But the result is a genuine statement piece you’ll reach for again and again.

    The herringbone texture catches the light beautifully and creates visual interest that simple stitches just can’t match. Combined with that polished push lock, tassel detail, and chain strap, you’ve got a bag worthy of any boutique window.

    I hope this step by step crochet tutorial gave you everything you need to create your own version of this gorgeous structured handbag. Whether you stick with mint green or choose your own favorite shade, I know you’re going to love carrying something you made with your own hands.

    If you found this pattern helpful, I’d love for you to save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you’re ready to start. And please, please leave a comment below if you make this bag. Seeing your finished projects absolutely makes my day, and I know it inspires other crafters to give it a try too.

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