I’ve been looking for the perfect granny square tote pattern for months now. You know the kind. Sturdy enough for farmers market runs, pretty enough to show off, and interesting enough to keep you engaged while crocheting. This Cherry Diamond Granny Tote is my new favourite. The bold cherry red and soft blush pink combination creates these gorgeous stepped diamond frames that catch the eye without being over the top.
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The construction is clever too. Four flower center squares join into a ring, then you add an oval base and dense bands at the top and bottom. It all comes together in a bag that looks far more complex than it actually is.
If you’re comfortable with double crochet and basic increasing, you can absolutely make this. Let me walk you through every step.
About This Pattern
This Cherry Diamond Granny Tote crochet pattern creates a beautiful structured bag with real presence. The finished tote measures approximately 34 to 36 cm wide when laid flat and stands about 25 to 28 cm high. The handle drop falls around 23 to 25 cm, which is perfect for carrying over your shoulder or in hand.
The design uses four identical granny squares featuring a radiating flower center. Each square showcases concentric color rounds that create that distinctive stepped diamond look you see in the photos. Once joined into a ring, the squares get an oval base and dense single crochet bands that give the bag structure and durability.
Skill level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable working in joined rounds, changing colors cleanly, and basic seaming techniques.
Materials You Will Need
Gather these supplies before you start. Having everything ready makes the process so much smoother.
Yarn:
Hooks:
Notions:
Gauge
Getting gauge right matters for this project. Your finished bag needs the squares and base to match up properly.
One blocked 7 round square should measure 18 cm along each side. Four squares together give you a 72 cm circumference.
For the dense bands: approximately 20 single crochet stitches per 10 cm.
Make a complete square and a 10 cm single crochet swatch before you start assembly. Trust me on this. A little time spent checking gauge saves a lot of frustration later.
Abbreviations and Terms
This pattern uses US crochet terminology. Here’s what each abbreviation means:
ch = chain: wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook
sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion
sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp = space
RS/WS = right side/wrong side
rep = repeat
inc = increase: work 2 stitches in one stitch
sc2tog or dc2tog = decrease: join the next 2 stitches into 1
Important: Turning chains do not count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.
Section 1: Flower Squares (Make Four)
These squares form the body of your tote. Work all rounds with the right side facing you. Join rounds with a slip stitch.
Color change tip: Change color on the final pull through of the last stitch before joining. Or fasten off and join the new color neatly. Either method works.
Round 1 (Color B)
Make an adjustable ring. Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). Work 11 more double crochet into the ring. Join to the top of the starting chain 3.
You should have 12 dc total. Tighten the center of your ring.
Round 2 (Color B)
Chain 3, double crochet in the same stitch. Work 2 double crochet in each of the remaining 11 stitches. Join.
Stitch count: 24 dc
Work loosely enough so your circle lies flat. The paired stitches form a radiating flower center, which is the pretty focal point of each square.
Round 3 (Color B)
Chain 3. In the same stitch, work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) for your first corner. Double crochet in the next 5 stitches.
Repeat the following 3 more times: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next stitch for corner, then dc in next 5 stitches.
Join.
Stitch count: 36 dc total, four corner ch 2 spaces, 9 dc between each corner space
Round 4 (Color A)
Join Color A in any corner space. In each corner, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Double crochet in every double crochet along each side. Join.
Stitch count: 52 dc total, 13 dc between corners
Round 5 (Color A)
Repeat Round 4, working a double crochet in every side stitch.
Stitch count: 68 dc total, 17 dc between corners
Round 6 (Color B)
Repeat Round 4.
Stitch count: 84 dc total, 21 dc between corners
Round 7 (Color A)
Repeat Round 4.
Stitch count: 100 dc total, 25 dc between corners
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Block each square to exactly 18 x 18 cm. Be careful not to distort your corner angles. All four squares must match in size. The right side shows a large pale center with broad cherry red framing and a thin blush pink accent.
Section 2: Join Body and Make Base
Creating the Body Ring
Arrange your four squares side by side with all right sides facing up. Using Color B, sew adjacent vertical edges together through outer loops only.
Match the 25 double crochet stitches between corner spaces on each edge. Secure each corner with 2 small stitches. Join the last square to the first to form a ring.
Leave the top and bottom edges open. When you lay the ring flat, one square should be centered on the front. The seams sit near the curved side edges.
Oval Base Round 1 (Color A)
Switch to your smaller 3.5 mm hook. Chain 22.
Single crochet in the second chain from hook. Single crochet in the next 19 chains. Work 3 single crochet in the last chain (this creates the turn).
Rotate to work along the underside of your foundation chain. Single crochet in the next 19 chains. Work 2 single crochet in the last chain beside your first single crochet.
Stitch count: 44 sts
Work continuous rounds from here. Place a marker in your first stitch. You have 19 straight stitches on each long side and 3 turning stitches at each short end.
Round 2
Work 2 sc in the first stitch, sc in the next 19. Increase in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in the next 19. Increase in each of the last 2 stitches.
Stitch count: 50 sts
Round 3
(Sc, inc), sc 19, (sc, inc) 3 times, sc 19, (sc, inc) twice.
Stitch count: 56 sts
Rounds 4 through 9
For Round n, work: (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) once, sc 19, (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) 3 times, sc 19, (sc in next n minus 2 stitches, inc) twice.
For Round 9, you work 7 sc before each increase.
Stitch counts by round: 62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92
Rounds 10 through 18
Continue the same oval formula. Round 10 uses 8 sc before each increase. Round 18 uses 16 sc before each increase.
Stitch counts by round: 98, 104, 110, 116, 122, 128, 134, 140, 146
Keep your 19 stitch straight sections aligned from round to round. This maintains the oval shape.
Section 3: Fit Base and Finish the Bands
Base Fit Check
Your final base has 146 stitches, which gives you approximately 73 cm perimeter at gauge. Measure this against the 72 cm blocked square ring. You will ease about 1 cm during sewing.
If your base is more than 2 cm too large or too small, adjust your hook size and remake the final rounds. Do not force folds into the join. It needs to fit smoothly.
Base Wall
Work 1 round of single crochet in back loops only. (146 sts)
Then work 4 rounds of single crochet in both loops. (146 sts each round)
This creates a structured rim rising from the oval. Slip stitch to close the round and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Lower Body Border (Color B)
Join Color B at one lower square corner. Work around each square bottom as follows: 1 sc in each of the 25 dc, plus 2 sc in each corner space. This gives you 29 sc per square.
Total: 116 sc around the entire lower edge
At shared seam corners, each square contributes its own 2 sc. Join.
Chain 1 and work a second round of 116 sc. Join and fasten off.
Join Base to Body
Quarter mark both your base and body using stitch markers. Match the markers and sew with Color A through both layers using small whipstitches.
Each quarter matches 29 body stitches to either 36 or 37 base stitches. Make 2 base attachments to one body stitch at 7 or 8 evenly spaced positions in that quarter.
Do not skip body stitches. The different stitch densities are intentional, and your measured circumferences should match.
Top Band Round 1 (Color B)
Work 116 sc around the top edge exactly as you did at the lower body edge. Join. Use the larger hook if this round contracts the squares.
Top Band Round 2 (Color A)
Chain 1. Distribute 28 increases evenly: repeat (sc 3, inc) 28 times, then sc 4.
Stitch count: 144 sts
This provides the stitch count for working with the smaller hook on a dense band. Switch to the 3.5 mm hook after this round.
Top Band Rounds 3 through 8
Single crochet in each stitch (144 per round), joining every round. Finish with one loose slip stitch round.
The opening should remain about 72 cm around without flaring or cinching. If your gauge differs, recalculate your top band target using: circumference multiplied by sc per cm. Then distribute increases evenly.
Section 4: Straps, Tassels, and Lining
Two Straps (Color A)
With your smaller 3.5 mm hook, chain 7.
Row 1: Single crochet in the second chain from hook and in each of the next 5 chains. (6 sts)
Chain 1, turn. Continue working rows of 6 single crochet until your strip measures 60 cm. Make two identical straps.
Fold each strip lengthwise and whipstitch the long edges together for a thick narrow strap. Leave 4 cm flat at both ends for sewing to the bag.
For less stretch: Enclose cotton webbing inside before seaming. This is optional but recommended if you plan to carry heavier items.
Attach Handles
Lay your bag flat with the front motif centered. Mark two attachment points on the front, about 8 cm apart. Mark matching points on the back.
Sew each flat strap end 4 cm down inside the top band. Use a rectangle and diagonal cross pattern for security. Sew through several rows, not only the top loops.
Both handles must have the same drop. Pull gently to check attachment before adding any weight.
Two Tassels (Color A)
Wrap yarn 35 times around a 10 cm piece of cardboard. Tie a doubled 20 cm strand through the top. Cut the bottom loops. Bind firmly 1.5 cm below the top and trim ends even.
Attach one tassel to each side seam just below the top band. Weave attachment tails deeply through at least 3 cm of fabric for security.
Optional Lining
Measure your actual inside width and height. Cut two fabric rectangles to your measured flat width plus 2 cm and height plus 2 cm.
Sew the sides and bottom with 1 cm seam allowances. Box the lower corners to match your measured base depth.
Turn the upper edge under 1 cm and press. Hand sew just below the top band, catching yarn on the inside only. Keep lining slightly roomy. Place the handle reinforcing ends between lining and crochet for extra support.
Finishing Your Tote
Weave all yarn ends through several directions so they stay secure. Support the base while shaping your bag and allow it to dry flat if you wet blocked.
Test with a light load first. Check your base seam and strap attachments before carrying heavier items. Cotton yarn stretches with weight, so adding lining and reinforced straps before regular use is smart.
Record your final size, yarn usage, and any gauge changes after making the complete sample. This information helps if you want to make another one later or adjust the sizing.
Tips for Success
Blocking matters. Take the time to block each square to exactly 18 cm. Uneven squares make assembly frustrating and result in a wonky finished bag.
Count your stitches. Especially on the base rounds where the increases happen at specific intervals. One missed increase throws off your entire oval shape.
Secure your handles well. The rectangle and X sewing pattern distributes weight across multiple stitches. Your bag will thank you.
Consider the lining. Even if you skip it initially, you can always add one later. Lining protects your crocheted fabric from abrasion and makes the bag more functional for everyday use.
This Cherry Diamond Granny Tote crochet pattern creates such a satisfying finished project. The combination of colorwork and construction techniques keeps things interesting without being overwhelming. And that stepped diamond effect? It really does look impressive.
I hope you love making this tote as much as I enjoyed putting together this pattern. If you create one, I would absolutely love to see it. Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start, and please leave a comment below once you’ve finished yours. Seeing your creations truly makes my day.
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