When I sat down to design this collar, I had one clear vision in my head. I wanted something that felt like a wearable garden. Something that would transform a simple linen top into a statement piece without looking costume-y or overwhelming.
The design decisions came quickly once I committed to Irish crochet techniques. Individual daisy motifs that could be joined together. Dimensional leaves tucked into every gap. Pearl beads scattered like morning dew. I wanted the construction to feel intentional and the finished piece to look effortless.
I am SO pleased with how this turned out. The butter yellow against white petal tips creates this sunny, cheerful energy. The green leaves add depth and movement. And that triangular bib shape? It sits beautifully against the chest and draws the eye exactly where you want it.
About This Crochet Collar Pattern
This decorative collar is worked in the Irish crochet style, which means you will create individual motifs separately and then join them together to form the final piece. The finished collar features a bib-shaped front panel that tapers to a central point at the sternum. It sits flat against your chest and shoulders, designed to be worn over any neckline you choose.
The collar fastens at the back with either a button loop or a hook-and-eye closure. You will be making large yellow daisies, smaller white-petaled daisies, dimensional green leaves, and adding pearl beads throughout for that extra touch of elegance.
Skill Level: Advanced
This pattern requires comfort with several techniques. You will need experience working in the round for individual motifs, joining motifs as you go, changing colors within motifs, stringing and placing beads mid-row, and creating dimensional leaves with surface texture. If you have made granny squares or Irish crochet flowers before, you will adapt quickly. The bib shaping and bead placement require careful attention, but I will walk you through every step.
Time Estimate: 14 to 20 hours for an experienced crocheter working at a comfortable pace. Allow additional time for bead stringing before each yarn color is begun and for blocking.
Finished Measurements
Materials Needed
Yarn:
Yarn Suggestions:
Important substitution note: Any size 10 crochet cotton thread will work. Do not substitute with fingering weight yarn, as the drape and weight will distort the bib shape. All three colors must come from the same thread weight family for consistent motif sizing and smooth joining.
Hooks:
Notions:
Gauge
Large daisy motif (9-petal, Rounds 1 through 3): 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter after blocking, using size 7 (1.65 mm) hook.
Small daisy motif (7-petal, Rounds 1 through 2): 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) in diameter after blocking, using size 7 (1.65 mm) hook.
Neckband in chain mesh pattern: 12 chain-mesh spaces = 3 inches (7.5 cm); 6 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm), using size 6 (1.8 mm) hook.
Gauge is critical for this crochet pattern. Each motif must measure correctly to allow all joining points to align and the bib to lie flat. Before beginning the full collar, crochet one large daisy and one small daisy, block them, and measure against the stated gauge. Adjust hook size as needed.
Abbreviations
Special Stitches for This Daisy Collar Pattern
Bead Single Crochet (bsc): Before beginning any row or round containing bead placement, slide the required number of beads onto the working yarn. To place a bead: push one bead snugly up to the hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (bead is now sitting on the right side of the work between the two loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. The bead is locked on the right side.
Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain made. This creates a small decorative bump.
Popcorn Stitch (pop): Work 5 double crochets into the same stitch or space. Remove the hook from the working loop, insert it from front to back into the top of the first dc of the group, pick up the dropped loop, pull it through. Chain 1 to lock if instructed.
Petal Shell (for large daisy): In one stitch or space, work [1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc] for a rounded petal shape. This counts as one petal.
Long Petal Shell (for leaf): Work a slip stitch, then [chain 1, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, chain 1, slip stitch] all into the same foundation ring or space to create one leaf section. Each leaf motif is two of these sections worked back to back sharing the same foundation.
Joining Slip Stitch (join-sl-st): Drop the working loop, insert the hook through the corresponding stitch of an adjacent completed motif, pick up the working loop, pull it through. Used to join motifs as-you-go during final rounds.
Important Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. The collar is built in three stages. First, the neckband is worked as a strip. Second, large daisy motifs, small daisy motifs, and leaf motifs are crocheted individually. Third, all motifs are assembled into the bib shape using a joining chain network, and the beaded border is added last.
2. String beads onto Yarn A before beginning any section that calls for bead placement. The collar uses approximately 120 beads total across all border and joining rounds. String all beads at once onto the border yarn, or string in batches of 30 before each border section. Beads cannot be added after the yarn is already attached.
3. All motifs are worked in the round on the right side unless otherwise noted. Do not turn unless explicitly instructed.
4. When changing colors within a motif, drop the old color at the last yarn over of the final stitch before the change. Complete the stitch with the new color. Weave ends as you go to reduce finishing time.
5. The collar is symmetrical about the center front axis. When assembling, mark the center large motif of the bottom row and work outward to each shoulder equally.
6. The neckband fastens at the center back. Leave a 6-inch tail at the start of the neckband for sewing on the button loop or hook-and-eye closure.
7. Bead count per section: neckband border uses 40 beads, collar body border uses 80 beads. String accordingly.
Step by Step Crochet Instructions
Section 1: Large Daisy Motif (Make 7 Total)
Make 6 in Yarn A with Yarn B petal tips. Make 1 in Yarn A with Yarn A tips for the center bottom position.
Each large daisy is made in two color stages. The center and petal bases are Yarn A. The petal tips are Yarn B (white). After blocking, each large daisy measures 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter.
Round 1 (Yarn A): Make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 9 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. Join to first sc with sl st. Do not turn. (9 sc)
Round 2 (Yarn A): Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each sc around. Join to first sc with sl st. (18 sc)
Round 3 (Yarn A, begin petals): [Ch 4, sk 1 sc, sc into next sc] 9 times. On the 9th repeat, ch 4, sk 1 sc, sl st into the same sc where Round 3 began to close the ring of petal arches. You now have 9 chain-4 arches. (9 arches)
Round 4 (Yarn B, petal tips): Join Yarn B with a sl st into any chain-4 arch. Into each arch work: [sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc]. Join with sl st to first sc of this round. (9 petals, each containing 7 stitches; 63 stitches total in Round 4)
Round 5 (Yarn A, petal backs): Working behind the petals of Round 4 and into the skipped sc stitches of Round 2, sl st Yarn A into the first skipped Round 2 sc. [Ch 5, sl st into the next skipped Round 2 sc] 8 times. Ch 5, sl st into the starting sl st to close. (9 chain-5 arches behind petals)
Fasten off Yarn B. Continue with Yarn A for the back arch round if needed for joining, or leave the back arches accessible. Weave in Yarn B end only. Leave Yarn A end for assembly.
Checkpoint: Each completed large daisy should measure 2 inches (5 cm) across. If larger, go down one hook size. If smaller, go up one hook size.
Section 2: Small Daisy Motif (Make 10 Total)
Make 8 in Yarn A with Yarn B tips for the collar row. Make 2 in Yarn A with Yarn A tips for shoulder ends.
The small daisy has 7 petals. After blocking, each small daisy measures 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) in diameter.
Round 1 (Yarn A): Make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 7 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. Join to first sc with sl st. (7 sc)
Round 2 (Yarn A, petal bases): [Ch 3, sk 0, sc into next sc] 7 times, ending with ch 3, sl st into the first sc to join. (7 chain-3 arches)
Round 3 (Yarn B, petals): Join Yarn B into any chain-3 arch. Into each arch work: [sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc]. Join with sl st to first sc of this round. (7 petals, each containing 6 stitches; 42 stitches total in Round 3)
Round 4 (Yarn A, back arches): Working behind petals and into the sc stitches of Round 1, sl st Yarn A into first Round 1 sc. [Ch 4, sl st into next Round 1 sc] 6 times. Ch 4, sl st to close. (7 chain-4 back arches)
Fasten off Yarn B. Leave Yarn A tail for joining.
Checkpoint: Small daisy should measure 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) across.
Section 3: Leaf Motif (Make 14 Total, All in Yarn C)
Each leaf motif is an oval two-lobed shape resembling a sprig with two leaves side by side. Each leaf pair measures approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) long by 0.75 inch (1.9 cm) wide after blocking.
Round 1 (foundation): Ch 9.
Sc into the 2nd chain from hook. Hdc into the next ch. Dc into each of the next 3 ch. Hdc into the next ch. Sc into the next ch. Into the last ch work [sc, ch 2, sc] to turn the corner. Now working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc into next ch. Hdc into next ch. Dc into each of the next 3 ch. Hdc into next ch. Sc into next ch. Sl st to join to the first sc. (20 sts plus ch-2 corner)
Round 2 (border): Ch 1. Sc into each st around, working [sc, ch 1, sc] into the ch-2 corner space, and [sc, ch 2, sc] at the opposite end (the starting end) to define the second leaf tip. Join to first sc. (22 sc plus 2 corner ch-sps)
Surface stitch (vein): Using Yarn C doubled, thread tapestry needle. Stitch a single running stitch down the center spine of each leaf section from tip to base to create a vein line. Do not pull tight; allow the vein to sit on the surface.
Fasten off. Leave 6-inch tail for joining.
Section 4: Neckband
The neckband is worked flat as a strip using a chain mesh pattern, then shaped with a row of single crochet on each long edge for stability. The finished neckband is 15 inches (38 cm) long and 0.75 inch (1.9 cm) wide. Use hook size 6 (1.8 mm) for this section.
Foundation: With Yarn A and size 6 hook, ch 91.
Row 1 (RS): Sc into the 2nd chain from hook, [ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc into next ch] across. Turn. (30 ch-3 spaces, 31 sc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc into the first ch-3 space, [ch 1, 2 dc into next ch-3 space] across, ending dc into last sc. Turn. (60 dc, 29 ch-1 spaces)
Row 3: Ch 1. Sc into each dc and each ch-1 space across. Turn. (90 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1. Sc into each sc across. Turn. (90 sc)
Do not fasten off. Continue along the long lower edge of the neckband for the border that will attach to the collar body.
Neckband lower edge: Ch 1. Working into the row ends along the lower long edge of the neckband, work 1 sc into each row end space evenly across. (Approximately 90 sc; adjust to reach an exact multiple of 9 for motif attachment, targeting exactly 90 sc.) Fasten off. Leave long tail.
Neckband upper edge trim: Rejoin Yarn A to the upper long edge. Ch 1. Sc evenly across the upper edge. String 40 beads onto Yarn A before beginning this step. Work as follows: [sc into next sc, bsc into next sc] across, placing 1 bead every other stitch. Fasten off. (Approximately 90 sts; 45 beads placed along upper edge)
Beads on the upper edge sit against the neck edge decoratively when the collar is worn. Adjust placement so beads face outward (right side).
Back closure: At each short end of the neckband, work a row of sc across the short end to neaten. On one end, ch 8, sl st to same end stitch to form a button loop. Sew button to opposite end. Alternatively, sew hook-and-eye closure at both ends.
Checkpoint: The neckband strip should measure 15 inches (38 cm) long and 0.75 inch (1.9 cm) wide before motif attachment, lying flat without curling. If it curls, the tension is too tight; block lightly before proceeding.
Section 5: Collar Body Assembly
Overview of layout: The collar body consists of three horizontal rows of motifs arranged in a triangular bib shape.
Step 1: Attach Row A small daisies to neckband
Divide the neckband lower edge (90 sc) into 5 equal segments of 18 sc each. Mark the center of each segment with a stitch marker. These 5 points are the attachment points for the 5 small daisies.
For each small daisy in Row A: Hold the small daisy with right side facing up against the right side of the neckband lower edge, centering it on the marked attachment sc. Using Yarn A, join with sl st through one back arch of the small daisy and through the corresponding neckband sc simultaneously. Then sl st through the adjacent neckband sc and the adjacent back arch of the small daisy 2 more times on each side (total 5 sl st joining points per small daisy, spanning 5 consecutive neckband sc). Secure firmly. (5 small daisies joined, each spanning 5 neckband sc, with 13 free sc remaining between daisies in each inter-daisy gap)
Step 2: Fill gaps between Row A daisies and neckband with chain bridges
Between each adjacent pair of Row A small daisies, work a chain bridge as follows: Join Yarn A with sl st to a free petal tip of the left small daisy. Ch 7. Sl st to the corresponding petal tip of the right small daisy. Fasten off and weave end. (4 chain bridges created between 5 daisies)
Step 3: Attach Row B large daisies
Each Row B large daisy sits centered below the gap between two Row A small daisies, offset by half a motif width in the traditional Irish crochet staggered layout.
Position the first (leftmost) Row B large daisy below and between the first and second Row A small daisies. Using Yarn A, join the top two back arches of the Row B large daisy to the lower petal tips of the two adjacent Row A small daisies using chain-5 bridges as follows: Attach Yarn A with sl st to upper back arch of large daisy. Ch 5. Sl st to lower petal tip of nearest Row A small daisy. Ch 5. Sl st to adjacent lower petal tip of next Row A small daisy. Ch 5. Sl st back to the next upper back arch of the large daisy to complete the V-shaped bridge. Fasten off.
Repeat this attachment for all 5 Row B large daisies: positions 1 through 5 from left to right across the collar. The 2 outer large daisies (positions 1 and 5) each have one bridge to a Row A small daisy and one chain end that extends toward the shoulder neckband sc, secured with a sl st to the nearest free neckband sc.
Step 4: Join Row B large daisies to each other
Between each adjacent pair of Row B large daisies, work a chain bridge: Join Yarn A with sl st to the petal tip of the left large daisy closest to the right large daisy. Ch 5. Sl st to the nearest petal tip of the right large daisy. Fasten off. (4 chain bridges between 5 Row B daisies)
Step 5: Attach Row C large daisies
Row C has 3 large daisies in a triangle arrangement. The center large daisy hangs lowest and is centered on the collar’s vertical axis. The two side large daisies of Row C sit lower than Row B and higher than the center.
Center bottom large daisy: Join the top two back arches to the lower petal tips of the two center Row B large daisies using chain-5 bridges as described in Step 3. This daisy hangs lowest and points at the sternum.
Left side Row C large daisy: Join its top back arches to the lower petal tips of Row B daisies in positions 1 and 2.
Right side Row C large daisy: Join its top back arches to the lower petal tips of Row B daisies in positions 4 and 5.
The three Row C large daisies are not joined directly to each other. The spaces between them are filled with chain bridges and leaves.
Step 6: Inter-Row C chain bridges
Between the left Row C large daisy and the center bottom large daisy, work: Join Yarn A with sl st to the nearest petal tip of the left Row C large daisy. Ch 6. Sl st to the nearest petal tip of the center bottom large daisy. Fasten off. Repeat on the right side.
Step 7: Attach leaf motifs
Leaves are placed in every open space between motifs, anchored by their base to chain bridges and their tips to adjacent petal tips. There are 14 leaf motifs total. Place them as follows:
To attach each leaf: Using the tail or a separate Yarn C length, sl st the base of the leaf to the nearest chain bridge or free sc. Sl st each leaf tip to the nearest petal tip of the flanking motif. Secure all ends.
Checkpoint: After full motif assembly and leaf placement, hold the collar up by the neckband. The bib shape should be visible: wider at the top (shoulder width approximately 12 inches) and narrowing to a point at the bottom (center front approximately 8.5 inches below neckband). All motifs should lie flat. If any section buckles or pulls, loosen that chain bridge by one or two chain stitches and re-secure.
Section 6: Outer Border with Beads
String 80 beads onto a fresh length of Yarn A before beginning this section. The border is worked around the entire outer perimeter of the collar (all outer petal tips and chain bridges on the lower and side edges of the bib), NOT around the neckband edge (that has already been trimmed).
Join Yarn A with sl st to the outer petal tip of the leftmost Row A small daisy at the shoulder edge.
Round 1 (outer border, right side facing): Ch 1. Work sc around the entire outer perimeter of the assembled collar, placing 1 sc into each petal tip, 1 sc into each chain-bridge space, and 2 sc at each outer corner of the bib. Continue around without joining, working in a continuous spiral or join at each "row" of outer edge if preferred. Place beads as follows: after every 3rd sc, work 1 bsc (bead single crochet). Adjust bead placement so that beads fall on chain bridges between petal tips for the most visual impact. Continue until the entire outer perimeter is bordered. Join with sl st to first sc.
Total outer perimeter stitch count varies with chain bridge lengths chosen, but targeting approximately 200 to 220 sc around the full outer edge, with approximately 70 to 75 beads placed along the border.
Round 2 (picot edge): Ch 1. [Sc into next 2 sc, picot] around outer border. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The beaded border should frame the bib cleanly. Beads should sit on the right side of the work facing outward. If any beads have flipped to the wrong side, insert hook, carefully slide bead to the front through the stitch, and re-secure.
Finishing and Blocking Your Daisy Collar
Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely using the tapestry needle, burying tails at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in multiple directions through the dense thread structure.
To block: Soak the entire collar in cool water with a small drop of gentle wool wash (suitable for cotton). Press out excess water gently without wringing. Lay flat on the blocking board. Pin the neckband in a gentle curve matching your neck measurement. Pin the shoulder edges outward to the full 12-inch (30.5 cm) width. Pin each daisy motif so its petals radiate evenly. Pin the bottom point of the bib straight downward. Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours depending on humidity) before unpinning.
Spray lightly with spray starch after the collar is shaped and still damp for extra body. This helps the collar lie flat against the garment without shifting.
Sew on button (if using button loop) or sew on hook-and-eye set at each end of the neckband back closure.
Care Instructions
Hand wash only in cool water with mild detergent suitable for cotton thread. Do not machine wash or tumble dry. Gently press between two clean towels to remove water. Lay flat to dry. Do not iron directly over beads. If pressing is needed, use a pressing cloth and low heat on the reverse side only. Store flat or loosely rolled to avoid crushing the dimensional petals.
Size Customization Tips
Smaller neck opening: Reduce the neckband foundation chain by increments of 3 (to keep the mesh pattern repeat divisible), subtracting 3 chain stitches reduces the neckband by approximately 0.4 inch (1 cm). Recalculate the number of sc on the neckband lower edge to keep it a multiple of 9 for even small-daisy attachment.
Larger neck opening: Add chain stitches in increments of 3 to the neckband foundation. For every extra 18 sc added to the neckband lower edge, add one more small daisy in Row A and one more large daisy in Row B to maintain the staggered drape.
Deeper bib: Add a Row D below Row C by placing 2 additional large daisies between the 3 Row C daisies using the same chain-bridge joining technique. This will increase the center drop by approximately 2 inches (5 cm).
Shallower bib: Eliminate Row C entirely. End the collar at Row B for a more delicate collar with a straighter bottom edge rather than a triangular point.
Motif density: Adding more leaf motifs (up to 20) to fill additional negative space creates a denser, more opaque collar. Reducing leaves to 8 creates a lacier, more open appearance.
Final Thoughts
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern! I know Irish crochet techniques can feel intimidating at first, but once you get into the rhythm of making those daisies, it becomes almost meditative. Each little flower is its own tiny accomplishment, and watching them come together into this beautiful collar is such a rewarding experience.
If you make this butter yellow daisy collar, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. Seeing your creations genuinely makes my day.
If you loved this crochet tutorial, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it later when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you give it a try. I always love hearing how your projects turn out!